How to Maintain Your Speargun: Cleaning, Band Care, Shaft Inspection, and Storage Tips

A speargun is the most critical piece of equipment a spearfisher owns, and the difference between a gun that fires reliably for years and one that fails at the worst possible moment comes down to maintenance. Saltwater, sand, UV exposure, and the sheer stress of loading and firing will wear down bands, corrode metal, and stiffen trigger mechanisms if you don't stay on top of care. The good news is that speargun maintenance is simple, takes only a few minutes after each session, and pays for itself many times over in equipment longevity and shot reliability.

Whether you shoot a basic Euro-style band gun, a pneumatic, or a high-end roller setup, these speargun maintenance habits apply across the board. Here's how to keep every component of your speargun in peak condition.

Freshwater Rinse: The Non-Negotiable First Step After Every Dive

Saltwater is corrosive to every metal surface on your speargun — stainless steel shafts, trigger components, muzzle hardware, and reel fittings all suffer when salt crystals are left to dry and accumulate. The single most important maintenance habit is rinsing your entire speargun thoroughly with fresh water immediately after every dive session. This takes less than two minutes and prevents the gradual corrosion that eventually leads to seized triggers, pitted shafts, and frozen reel mechanisms.

Work the trigger repeatedly under running water to flush salt and sand out of the mechanism's internal components. If your gun has an enclosed trigger housing, cycle it several times to move water through the moving parts. Run water over the muzzle, through any line guides, and along the full length of the barrel track. If you use a reel, spin it under the water stream to flush the drag system. A thorough rinse after every session is the foundation that every other maintenance step builds on.

Band Maintenance: When to Inspect, Replace, and How to Extend Band Life

Speargun bands are a consumable item with a finite lifespan. Rubber degrades from UV exposure, repeated stretching, and chemical breakdown over time. A fresh band delivers maximum power, consistent accuracy, and a smooth release. A worn band delivers less energy to the shaft, reduces effective range, and risks snapping under load — which can injure you and will definitely cost you a shot on a fish. Inspect your bands before every dive by stretching them and checking for surface cracks, discoloration, tacky spots, or uneven elasticity.

Replace bands at the first sign of visible wear rather than pushing them to failure. Most divers get three to six months of regular use from quality latex bands depending on UV exposure and dive frequency. Store your speargun with bands in a relaxed, unstretched position and keep them out of direct sunlight whenever possible. A light coating of band conditioner or 303 Protectant helps slow UV degradation between dives. Keep a spare set of pre-tied bands in your gear bag so you can swap them on the boat without losing dive time.

Shaft and Spear Tip Inspection: Straightness, Sharpness, and Slip Tip Function

A bent shaft is an inaccurate shaft. Even a slight bend will cause the spear to track off-target, costing you clean kill shots and increasing the chance of wounding fish. After each dive, roll your shaft on a flat, hard surface and watch for any wobble or deviation. If it doesn't roll perfectly straight, it's time for a replacement. Attempting to straighten a bent shaft rarely produces reliable results and can weaken the metal at the bend point.

Check your spear tip for sharpness by lightly running your thumb across the point — it should catch on your skin without any pressure. A dull tip reduces penetration, especially on tough-scaled species, and increases the chance of a pull-out during the fight. If you run a slip tip system, verify that the tip slides freely on and off the shaft and that the cable or dynema connecting it is undamaged. Sharpen tips with a fine file or stone as needed, and carry spares for your shaft configuration.

Shooting Line and Rigging: Check for Fraying and Weak Points

Your shooting line is the connection between your speargun and your shaft after the shot. A frayed, kinked, or abraded line can snap under the load of a large fish, costing you both the shaft and the catch. Inspect your shooting line after every session by running it through your fingers and looking for worn spots, fraying, or stiffness. Monofilament line should be replaced if it shows any memory coiling or surface abrasion. Spectra and Dyneema lines are more durable but still need regular inspection for chafing where they pass through guides.

Check all rigging connection points including the line-to-shaft knot, any crimps or swivels, and the attachment to your reel or bungee. These are the highest-stress failure points in your setup. If you use a floatline or bungee reel, inspect the bungee cord for elasticity loss and the reel for smooth operation. Replace any rigging component that shows wear before it fails on a fish you care about landing.

Trigger Mechanism and Lubrication: Keep the Heart of Your Gun Running Smooth

The trigger mechanism is the most mechanically complex part of your speargun and the component most affected by salt, sand, and corrosion. After rinsing, apply a small amount of food-grade silicone lubricant to the trigger pivot points and sear. Avoid petroleum-based lubricants like WD-40 on rubber or neoprene components — petroleum products degrade rubber and can damage O-rings and band contact surfaces.

If your trigger starts to feel gritty, stiff, or inconsistent, disassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions, clean all parts with fresh water and a soft brush, dry thoroughly, lubricate, and reassemble. A smooth, predictable trigger pull is essential for accurate shooting under pressure. If you're not comfortable servicing the trigger yourself, most dive shops and speargun manufacturers offer rebuild services that restore the mechanism to factory condition.

Storage: How to Store Your Speargun Between Dives and During the Off-Season

Proper storage protects your speargun from the two biggest threats during downtime: UV degradation and residual moisture corrosion. Never leave your gun in direct sunlight, in a hot vehicle, or standing loaded on the bands. Store it horizontally on a rack or hang it vertically in a cool, dry, shaded area. A padded speargun bag protects the barrel, muzzle, and bands during transport and keeps everything organized.

For long-term or off-season storage, remove the bands entirely to eliminate any static tension on the rubber. Apply a light coat of silicone lubricant to all metal surfaces including the shaft, trigger components, and muzzle hardware. Remove the shaft and store it separately to prevent track wear. Loosen or remove any line under tension. A properly stored speargun will come out of the closet ready to dive with nothing more than a fresh set of bands and a quick function check.

Five Minutes of Maintenance Saves Hundreds in Replacements

Speargun maintenance isn't complicated, but it has to be consistent. Rinse after every dive, inspect bands and shafts regularly, keep your trigger clean and lubricated, check your rigging for wear, and store everything properly. These habits take minutes per session and will keep your speargun firing accurately and reliably for years. The divers who take care of their equipment are the ones who never miss a shot because of a gear failure. For more spearfishing gear maintenance tips, visit SpearFactor.com.